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Ucrania.
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Travelling to Ucrania: what to know before you go

Ukraine is the largest country entirely within Europe, with golden-domed churches in Kyiv, the coffee-house old town of Lviv, wooden churches in the Carpathian Mountains and a long Black Sea coast. The country has been at war since Russia's full-scale invasion in February 2022, and many governments advise against travel; anyone considering a visit must check their government's current travel advice. This guide describes Ukraine's culture, history and landscapes respectfully, for readers planning now or in the future.

Where to go

• Kyiv. Saint Sophia's Cathedral, with 11th-century mosaics, and the cave monasteries of the Kyiv Pechersk Lavra are both UNESCO World Heritage sites.
• Lviv. A UNESCO-listed old town of Renaissance and Baroque buildings around Rynok Square, with an Armenian cathedral, a long tradition of coffee houses and chocolate makers, and a lively cultural life.
• The Carpathian Mountains. Forested ranges in the west with hiking trails up Hoverla, Ukraine's highest mountain, waterfalls near Yaremche and the Hutsul highland culture, known for woodcarving, embroidery and the long trembita horn.
• Wooden churches of the Carpathians. Wooden tserkvas, built by Orthodox and Greek Catholic communities, are found across the region, and several are inscribed as UNESCO World Heritage sites together with others in Poland.

Best time to visit

In normal times, late spring (May to June) and early autumn (September) are the most pleasant months for city visits and the Carpathians, with warm days and blooming chestnut trees in Kyiv. Summer is warm and was traditionally the season for the Black Sea coast.

Staying online in Ucrania

Mobile networks have continued to operate in much of the country, with 4G in cities and along main routes, but coverage can be disrupted by attacks on infrastructure and by power outages, especially in areas near the front line, where service may be absent. Many cafés, shops and public places have generators or batteries and offer Wi-Fi during power cuts. Install an air-raid alert app and keep a power bank charged. If you are travelling, install an eSIM before you set off and switch it on when you cross the border, but do not rely on any single connection.