A little more
Albania.
A lot less roaming.

Travelling to Albania: what to know before you go

Albania packs Ottoman stone towns, Greek and Roman ruins, high limestone mountains and a long Ionian coastline into a small country on the Adriatic. Closed off for decades under communism, it now suits travellers who like road trips, hiking and beach towns with a strong local character.

Where to go

• Tirana. A lively capital of painted apartment blocks, cafés and the broad Skanderbeg Square.
• Berat. The 'town of a thousand windows', where white Ottoman houses climb the hillside above the Osum river.
• Gjirokastër. A stone town in the south with grey-roofed tower houses and a vast hilltop castle.
• Butrint. An archaeological site near Sarandë, set in a wooded lagoon close to the Greek border.

Best time to visit

May, June and September are ideal: warm, sunny and less crowded than high summer, with the sea warm enough to swim from June. July and August are hot and the Riviera beaches are busy.

Staying online in Albania

Mobile coverage with 4G is good in Tirana, the larger towns and along the coast. It becomes patchy in the deep mountain valleys of the north, including around Theth and on the Lake Koman ferry, and in some southern gorges. Wi-Fi is widely available in cafés, guesthouses and restaurants. Albania is not in the EU, so EU roaming allowances do not apply. Install an eSIM before you fly and switch it on when you land.