A little more
Ethiopia.
A lot less roaming.

Travelling to Ethiopia: what to know before you go

Ethiopia is a highland country in the Horn of Africa with its own ancient script, calendar and church traditions, and a history stretching back to the kingdom of Aksum. Its highlights range from the rock-hewn churches of Lalibela and the castles of Gondar to the peaks of the Simien Mountains and the volcanic Danakil Depression, one of the hottest places on earth. It suits travellers interested in history, culture, coffee and dramatic landscapes.

Where to go

• Lalibela. Eleven medieval churches carved down into solid rock, linked by trenches and tunnels and still used for worship.
• Simien Mountains National Park. A UNESCO World Heritage site of jagged peaks and escarpments in the north, with treks from day hikes to multi-day routes.
• Gondar. The seventeenth-century royal capital has a walled enclosure of castles and palaces, Fasil Ghebbi, plus Fasilides' Bath, where the Timkat festival is celebrated, and the painted ceiling of Debre Berhan Selassie church.
• Aksum. The centre of an ancient kingdom that traded across the Red Sea, with towering carved stone stelae, royal tombs and the church that Ethiopian Orthodox Christians believe houses the Ark of the Covenant.

Best time to visit

The dry season, roughly from October to March, is the best time for most of the country, with clear skies and green landscapes after the rains. The main rainy season runs from about June to September in the highlands.

Staying online in Ethiopia

Mobile coverage is good in Addis Ababa and other cities, with 4G in many towns, but it becomes patchy or absent in the mountains, the Danakil and the remote south, including much of the Omo Valley. Wi-Fi in hotels is common in cities but can be slow. Internet access can occasionally be restricted in some regions, so keep offline copies of tickets, maps and important documents. Install an eSIM before you fly and switch it on when you land.