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Esuatini.
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Travelling to Esuatini: what to know before you go

Eswatini, known as Swaziland until 2018, is a small, landlocked kingdom between South Africa and Mozambique, with mountains in the west, bushveld in the east and a strong living culture of royal ceremonies and traditional crafts. Compact game reserves offer rhinos, elephants and lions within easy driving distance of each other. It suits safari travellers combining it with South Africa's Kruger, hikers and anyone interested in Swazi culture.

Where to go

• Hlane Royal National Park. The country's largest protected area, in the eastern lowveld, home to lions, elephants and white rhinos.
• Mkhaya Game Reserve. A small private reserve known for its rhinos, both black and white, which visitors can sometimes track on guided walks.
• Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary. The country's oldest protected area, in the Ezulwini Valley, where zebra, antelope and warthogs graze beside walking, cycling and horse-riding trails.
• Malolotja Nature Reserve. Highland grasslands, gorges and waterfalls in the north-west, with hiking trails and a canopy tour of zip lines over a forested valley.

Best time to visit

The dry winter months, roughly from May to September, are best for wildlife viewing, as animals gather at waterholes and vegetation is thinner. Days are mild and sunny, but nights in the highlands can be cold.

Staying online in Esuatini

Mobile coverage is good in Mbabane, Manzini, the Ezulwini Valley and along main roads, with 4G in the larger towns. Coverage can drop in the mountains, deep valleys and in parts of the game reserves. Lodges and hotels often offer Wi-Fi, which may be limited to the main building. Download offline maps for reserve roads, install an eSIM before you fly and switch it on when you land.