A little more
Moldova.
A lot less roaming.

Travelling to Moldova: what to know before you go

Moldova is a small, landlocked country between Romania and Ukraine, with rolling hills, vineyards and some of the largest wine cellars in the world. It is one of Europe's least visited countries, which means quiet monasteries, village hospitality and wineries without crowds. It suits wine lovers and curious travellers who don't mind fairly basic tourism infrastructure outside the capital.

Where to go

• Chișinău. The capital is a green city of wide boulevards and parks.
• Mileștii Mici. South of Chișinău, a network of limestone tunnels running for some 200 kilometres holds a wine collection recognised by Guinness World Records as the largest in the world.
• Cricova. Just north of the capital, an underground wine city of tunnels and streets named after grape varieties, with cellars used for ageing sparkling wine.
• Orheiul Vechi. A dramatic bend in the Răut river where a cave monastery is carved into the limestone cliff, above a village of painted wooden houses.

Best time to visit

May to October is the best time to visit, with warm weather for walking and touring the countryside. September and October are particularly good, when the grape harvest and National Wine Day bring festivals and the hills turn golden.

Staying online in Moldova

Moldova has fast mobile internet, with good 4G coverage in Chișinău, in larger towns and along main roads. Coverage is generally reasonable in the countryside but can drop in river valleys such as the Dniester gorges, and is naturally absent inside deep wine cellars. Free Wi-Fi is common in cafés, restaurants and hotels in the capital. Moldova is not in the EU, so EU roaming rules do not apply. Install an eSIM before you fly and switch it on when you land.